córdoba

As much as I love Madrid, I definitely needed to take a little excursion and get out for a couple days. Up until now I hadn't been out of the city, and I was ready to see some other part of Spain. On our little post-PLP vacation some friends and I decided to take a trip to the town of Córdoba in Andalucía in the south of Spain. Bus tickets were only 30€ round trip and there wouldn't be another long break until at least November, so it was a perfect opportunity. 


We arrived late Friday night, and after a small scuffle with trying to sneak four people into a hostal that was meant for only one, we decided it was best to just get a full night sleep to be rested for the following day. 


A little background info: Córdoba used to be an important city during the era of the Roman Empire, but it is most known as the capital of the Islamic Caliphate in Spain when the area was ruled by Muslims about 1,000 years ago. There is a giant mosque there--la mezquita--that is by far the most famous monument in the city, and one of the most famous in Spain. Right next to it is a bridge crossing the Guadalquivir River that was built by ancient Romans. Even though the main part of the bridge had obviously been restored, we could see the original structures underneath that supported the structure back in the times of Emperor Augustus. 

Jesus hanging under an Islam-
influenced wall?

Next was la mezquita, which was definitely one of the most breathtaking buildings I have ever seen. The architecture inside and out was incredible, along with the elaborate adornments all over the building. The only thing, however, was the disconnect between the two. The walls and ceilings were obviously of Arab influence, but the walls were covered with crucifixes and statues of Mary. Jesus hanging on the cross looked as out of place as a Koran would look in a Christian church at home. I didn't even realize until I got there that after the Muslims were driven out of the city (and later the entire country in 1492), la mezquita actually became a cathedral, and they literally took out the middle of the mosque to put in a Catholic church which still functions today with daily mass. The building has the potential to be a symbol for coexistence and empathy toward other religions, but the Vatican refuses to allow any Muslims to worship there. In fact, just last year some Muslim students on a tour were involved in a violent altercation with security when they kneeled down to pray in front of the mihrab. Personally, I thought the few Arab artifacts that remained were the most stunning parts of the building. Although, I've seen plenty of cathedrals in my life; maybe it's just because the mosque was something new.  

The mihrab. It should face toward Mecca
(which is southeast of Spain), but this one
actually faces south. 

The rest of the trip involved a lot of really good food, wine that tasted like prune juice, and some more historical sites, like the castle where Queen Isabel I and King Fernando V stayed as they reclaimed Spain from the Moors.  To complete our religious mélange, we also saw a synagogue built in 1315 that is one of only a few left in Spain from before the expulsion of the Jews.  


I'm just starting to unpack now, and then before I know it I'll be packing up again for Ibiza. And these are just weekend trips for me. 


Spoiled much?